[MMM]

I wrote this for a local Japanese/English paper, and thought I might share...

Everyone in Japan has studied English, right?

Indeed, everyone living in Japan who has graduated from high school has studied English for at least six years. However, the majority of Japanese cannot speak more than very fundamental English. Do not count on the English of strangers to get you where you want to go.Make preparations, and print out maps and vital information in advance. It is much easier for someone to point you in the direction of the right station than it is to explain the three changes you need to make to get to Disneyland.

Just this trip I ran into a man at a train station in Akasaka who was looking for the American Embassy in Tokyo. He was relatively close, but didn't know the exact way. "I can't believe no staff in this train station speak English or understand the word 'embassy'," he said to me. It didn't occur to him that looking up the word "embassy" in Japanese (taishikan) before he set out, or at least carrying a dictionary, could have saved him probably hours of hassle. Be prepared for anything. This leads to our next to points...

What about a cell phone?

A few years ago I wouldn't have worried about it so much, but especially if you are doing business, a cell phone is really a must have item. If something comes up and your client needs to get a hold of you, it is your responsibility to be accessible. Even for pleasure trips, renting a cell phone at the airport can certainly buy you peace of mind over the length of your stay. Pay phones are becoming dusty relics as Japan truly becomes a fully cell phone culture. You can make reservations online in advance in English, but keep in mind there may be a half dozen or more outlets at the airport, so, again, print out all the information in advance, including a map to the rental phone counter, before you board your plane. A search of "Narita phone rental" will get you started.

Am I going to be stared at? / Am I going to be treated like a rock star?

These are two common questions that are essentially asking the same thing: "By being a foreigner am I going to be treated differently?" Either I will be giving you relief or popping your bubble by telling you that in 2010 your blond hair and blue eyes are no longer anything that special on their own. The larger the city you go to the less attention you are going to attract just for being a non-Japanese. And that's the way it should be, right?

However this goes back to the first question. Sometimes I notice foreigners in Japan confuse the high level or service one receives just about everywhere with a rock star mentality. As a result every so often they can subconsciously try and get away with things they wouldn't get away with at home or shirk responsibility (like assuming you can get directions to the embassy without speaking Japanese.) Keep in mind you are not getting great service because you are special, but because that is the culture of Japan's service industry. Allow people to take care of you at the level they are paid to do, but remember just because they treat you like royalty doesn't mean you should treat them like a servant. A hearty arigatou goes a long way in leaving a lasting impression (and even better service in the future).

As a tourist, should I get a rail pass?

It really depends on how much long distance traveling you plan on doing, and unless it is a lot, it probably isn't worth it. The JR Rail Pass is about $500 (45,100 yen) for two weeks. To put it in perspective, a round trip to Osaka from Tokyo on the bullet train is about $300. It is important to remember that the JR Rail Pass is only for JR line trains. For example, while in Tokyo I almost never rode JR, but was mostly using the subways. Even still, I spent less than $10 a day on trains. If you are planning on several shinkansen trips during your stay then remember to buy the Rail Pass in advance. It cannot be purchased in Japan. Which leads us to our next question...

A trip to Japan isn't complete without a visit to Tokyo.

I can't count how many times I have heard this statement, and I am really not sure where it comes from. It's a little like saying a trip to the US isn't complete without a visit to Los Angeles. There are lots of things to see in Tokyo, no doubt about it, but don't limit yourself. If your trip to Japan is more than about five days, then be sure to schedule some time away. Personally I like Osaka because you are day trips away from Nara, Kyoto and Kobe, which makes for a superfecta of four cities with four very different personalities. Yokohama is a hop and a skip from Tokyo, and has the largest Chinatown in Japan. The point is, don't deny yourself the very real world of Japan outside of Tokyo. Even Tokyoites would agree.

I have a 90 day visa, so I want do use every minute of it!

I really think especially with a first trip to Japan, less is more. "If I am paying $XXX for a ticket, I want to stay in Japan as long as possible." I understand the math, but what can start as a great first (or second, or third) trip can end up an awful experience by simply extending it for too long and stretching funds too thin. Depending on the individual, I think two to three weeks is the optimum time for a trip. It allows for a reasonable schedule (don't plan on more than two or three sites or events in a day). There is a user on JF planning on spending 60 days in southern Kyoto (after a month with his GF in Hokkaido). He had picked that area from something he had heard, but has no real plans other than to rent a weekly mansion and tour around Kyoto. The problem is that's like spending 60 days touring around Portland. You can certainly keep busy for a week... maybe even two. But after that you have 45 days alone and very little to do. In the end the experience will be much fuller spending the same amount of money on better food and lodging and seeing more of Japan. End your trip wanting more, not wishing you went home weeks or even months earlier.