Planning a trip, would like to avoid tourist traps

[waterlilly]

Hi everyone,

I'm in the beginning stages of planning a trip for my mother and I- I'm leaving my husband behind because he demands western toilets and refuses to fly more than 5 hours in coach.

Mom lived in Japan at one time in her life, and I live in New York City so I'd like to avoid simiar "big city" attractions that I see all the time in my home town (ie: big flashing light displays, posh shops like Chanel and Hermes). Knowing there's so many tourist traps here, I'd like to ask if anyone knows of anything to avoid in Tokyo or Kyoto. My Mom has already seen much fo the attractions, so I'd love to hear suggestions for some lesser known destinations that mom probably hasn't seen before.

I'm thinking of going in April for the Kanamara Matsuri in Kawasaki. Does anyone know of a really good Ryokan in Kawasaki with an onsen? I do have a problem, I haved a very large tattoo of a dragon on my back (too large to be covered) and I already know it might be a issue. That being said, if anyone knows of a nice, tattoo-friendly onsen, please let me know I may have to opt for a ryokan that has private tubs, but if there's other options I'd love to know about them!

For Tokyo sightseeng should I stay away from Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ginza and Roppongi (since I live in New York), opting instead for places like Asakusa, Kappabashi and Odaiba? Or are there things in the places I'm thinking of omitting that are truly unique and worth a visit? I definately want to see the fish market though, I also hear theres some good sushi restaurants there.

Other Tokyo questions:
1) Where to shop for Kimonos and crafts? Are there places outside of Tokyo that are better for this sort of thing?
2) Which museum has the best collection of Kitanas?

Since we'll only be there for a week, are there any places outside Kyoto and Tokyo that are recommended? My mother and I love crafts and onsen, we're also fans of japanese food and wouldn't mind learning how to make soba, visiting a pottery demonstration or paying for a short class on sumi painting.

Thanks in advance!